Saturday, November 21, 2015

Time

I've neglected putting my thoughts down for quite a while now. As usual, I will just start talking.

-Yosemite-

Went to Yosemite wit Chris so we could get away from the world and climb whatever we felt like. It was in the 20's in the morning and the 50-60's during the day, cooler in the shade. Short days, though. October is probably my favorite month in Yosemite, as it's a good balance for a hot sweaty nigga like me. Chris slept in a tent and I used a UK issue bivy sack. A tent might've been a good idea, though I don't have one now. I typically use a poncho and bungee cords to rig something up. I plan on fixing his situation soon with a new minimalist tent type deal. I'd like more padding and insulation for my back when sleeping in the same spot for more than 2-3 nights. I'd like to invest in a Kifaru Woobie, which is essentially a modernized high quality poncho liner. I am in many situations where a poncho liner isn't enough warmth to sleep in, but you don't need a sleeping bag.

Trying to improve my approach so that it can be done whether camping near your car, or backpacking. I have a plan rolling around in my head involving solo backpacking. When it will happen, I don't know. It might just be a fantasy.

We went to Swan Slab to show Chris what some of the climbing involved. He did well, and did his first leads by the last day. He climbed Oak Tree Flake and Bay Tree Crack several times. I hope to get hit in the face with rope by him on following him sometime soon.

From there, we went to Manure Pile Buttress. We climbed After Seven to the remaining pitches of After Six. I was not completely back into the climbing here, and nearly fell on After Seven. We raced the setting sun on the following pitches of After Six, where Chris got to be above the trees.


The next day, we climbed the Grack. I enjoy Glacier Point Apron and try to climb there as often as I can, often on variations of the Grack. We brought my 60m dyneema shoelace pullcord, which allowed us to rappel down near Marginal (5.9 R), skipping stations.


I spied a line to climb up from the top of the Grack. I'd like to come back alone sometime and work on it. Goes up flake dihedrals up and right with some good slab here and there. It steepens before going up to Glacier Point.

The next day, we went to Swan Slab to help him begin leading. Then I took us up a line I'd never done before, but always saw. We climbed Grants Crack, and did the 5.6 pitch above the anchor. I stretched the rope out for a full 60m and almost made it to the big ledge for the walk off.


It follows the zigzag above Chris.


Fun and easy, 5.6 or so. I did not stop at the ancient bolt visible above the chimney, but moved up and right a bit.

After this,mwe climbed Munginella. I haven't tried the 5.7 crack on the last pitch yet.


Chris belays me from the ledge while two friendly Canadians head up.


Here be Chris on Bay Tree Crack.

I have some ideas for climbing but am paying more attention to regular life things, trying to improve the situation. Not much on my mind for climbing. Did try some new lines at CL Wall, however.


They didn't go, yet. Might get back to work on them, might not.

Not much more to say tonight. More later.